Tracksuit Fabric: Fleece vs Poly and GSM

Not all tracksuits are built from the same fabric. The choice between fleece-backed cotton and polyester determines how the set feels, how it drapes, how it handles sweat, and how long it lasts before pilling or fading. Our complete tracksuit guide covers the full category.

This article focuses on the fabric science.

What Is Fleece-Backed Cotton?

Fleece-backed cotton is a knitted fabric where the interior face is mechanically brushed to raise a soft, insulating nap. The exterior face remains smooth. This construction traps air between the fibres, providing warmth without the weight of a woven wool.

The relationship: Fleece is measured by Grammage — a 350 GSM fleece-backed cotton tracksuit has roughly twice the fibre mass per square metre of a 180 GSM lightweight hoodie. That mass translates directly to opacity, structure, and longevity.

What Is Polyester in Tracksuits?

Polyester is a synthetic polymer fibre. In tracksuits, it is usually blended with cotton (typically 60/40 or 80/20 cotton-poly) or used as a 100% synthetic knit. Polyester adds wrinkle resistance, shape retention, and faster drying time. It also resists pilling better than cotton because the fibres are smoother and stronger.

The trade-off: polyester is less breathable than cotton and can retain odours more readily because it does not absorb moisture — it wicks it, but does not hold it for bacterial breakdown the way cotton does.

Fleece vs Polyester: Side-by-Side

GSM for Tracksuits: The Weight Sweet Spot

Grammage determines how a tracksuit feels and drapes. See our What is GSM? fabric weight guide for the full breakdown. For tracksuits specifically:

• Under 250 GSM: Too light for a structured tracksuit. Drapes like a thick t-shirt. OK for summer joggers, not for a full set.
• 250-300 GSM: Lightweight tracksuit territory. Good for warm weather or layering under a coat. The Classic Cotton Zip Through sits in this range.
• 300-380 GSM: The standard for streetwear tracksuits. Enough structure to hold a boxy silhouette, enough weight to feel premium. The Classic Cotton full sets and the Box Logo Track sit here.
• 400+ GSM: Jacket-weight. Warm but restrictive for daily movement. Rare in tracksuits; more common in heavyweight hoodies.

How to Choose: A Decision Flow

1. Do you want structure or drape? Structure = cotton fleece. Drape = polyester or poly-blend.
2. What is your climate? Perth winter (cool, wet) = cotton fleece at 300+ GSM. Perth summer (hot, dry) = polyester or lightweight cotton at 250 GSM.
3. Will you travel with it? Polyester resists wrinkles and dries overnight. Cotton fleece wrinkles and takes 12-24 hours to air-dry.
4. Do you care about pilling? Polyester pills less. Cotton fleece pills eventually — combed cotton resists longer than carded.
5. What is your budget? Pure cotton fleece at 300+ GSM costs more in raw materials than polyester. The price difference reflects the fibre weight, not just branding.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Is cotton or polyester better for a tracksuit?

Cotton is better for structure, breathability, and streetwear credibility. Polyester is better for travel, warm weather, and wrinkle resistance. A 60/40 cotton-poly blend gives you 70% of cotton’s benefits with 60% of polyester’s convenience.

What GSM should a tracksuit be?

300-380 GSM for a standard streetwear tracksuit. Below 250 GSM is too light for a structured set. Above 400 GSM is jacket-weight and restricts movement. See our GSM guide for the full breakdown.

Does polyester make you sweat more?

Polyester does not make you sweat more, but it can feel hotter because it does not absorb moisture the way cotton does. The sweat sits on the surface until it evaporates. In humid climates, this can feel clammy. In dry climates like Perth, it evaporates quickly and feels fine.

How do I stop my cotton tracksuit from pilling?

Wash inside-out in cold water, use liquid detergent (not powder), air-dry flat, and avoid abrasion from bag straps or seat belts. Combed cotton pills less than carded cotton because the short fibres were removed before spinning.

Are Konahm tracksuits cotton or polyester?

The Classic Cotton range is 100% cotton. The Taped Tracksuit range uses a cotton-polyester blend. Check individual product pages for exact composition.

Fabric Care by Material

Cotton fleece: wash cold, dry low. High heat shrinks cotton and damages the brushed interior. Polyester blends: wash warm, dry low. Polyester resists shrinkage but can melt above 60 degrees. Always check the care label — a 60/40 cotton-poly blend follows cotton rules, not polyester rules.